Just Back From: Antarctica

Emma Sanger-Horwell shares her recent visit to Antarctica onboard PONANT's Le Lyrial

photo credit @Emma Sanger-Horwell

My recent 18-day expedition aboard Ponant's elegant ship, Le Lyrial, was nothing short of extraordinary. This unforgettable voyage took us deep into the Southern Lands, tracing the trails of legendary explorers like Jean-Baptiste Charcot, Adrien de Gerlache, and Ernest Shackleton. Our adventure began in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, and ventured through the breath-taking landscapes of South Georgia and Antarctica, all while surrounded by the textured stories of exploration and discovery.

Setting Sail from Ushuaia

As we departed from Ushuaia, I couldn’t help but feel a rush of excitement, knowing we were following in the footsteps of some of history’s most adventurous pioneers. The ship sailed smoothly through the Beagle Channel, offering glorious views of the jagged mountains framing the city. The anticipation of our journey into the Southern Ocean was palpable in the air.

South Georgia: The Land of Exploration

Our first major stop was South Georgia, where we immersed ourselves in its rich history and astounding landscapes. We began at Grytviken, an abandoned whaling station that serves as a poignant reminder of the region's past. The ruins, set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains and wild ocean, resonated with the tales of Shackleton and his crew, who found refuge here during their legendary Endurance Odyssey in 1916.

One of the highlights was visiting Salisbury Plain, home to a staggering colony of king penguins. Standing amidst thousands of these charming creatures, with their striking orange accents and inquisitive gazes, was a surreal experience. The sight of fluffy penguin chicks waddling alongside their parents brought a warmth to the icy landscape.

Fortuna Bay captivated us with its sweeping beaches and lively wildlife, where we spotted seals basking in the sun. To top it off, we enjoyed a hike to the glacier and its  surrounding hills that offered panoramic views of the bay — an absolutely breath-taking scene!

 Photos credit @Emma Sanger-Horwell

Crossing the Southern Ocean to Antarctica

From South Georgia, we journeyed across the Southern Ocean, the stunning vistas of rolling waves and elusive sea life brought constant reminders of the beauty surrounding us. Sea birds including Albatross following us.

Upon arriving at Penguin Island in the South Shetland Islands, our hearts surged with joy as we encountered a lively colony of Gentoo and chinstrap penguins. The spectacle of their playful antics created unforgettable memories. Admiralty Bay, proved equally mesmerizing, with its towering glaciers and cascading icefalls. The weather was kind to us and colours of the sea and ice were mesmerising.

 

The Frozen Realm of Antarctica

Our entrance into Antarctica was nothing short of awe-inspiring. From the majestic A23a iceberg with its brilliant shades of blue to the expansive ice shelves, every moment felt like stepping into a colossal art piece crafted by nature. 

Exploring the Antarctic Peninsula

Danco Island offered a serene experience with its rugged coastlines and tranquil clear waters. Here, we experienced more  Gentoos on nests. Top early in the season for chicks yet here.

Wilhelmina Bay showcased another side of Antarctica with its rugged landscapes, towering glaciers, and a shimmering sea dotted with icebergs. The contrast of the white and blue hues was nothing less than breath-taking, reminding us of nature's artistry. We spotted humpback whales breaching in the distance, and a leopard seal with her pup, an extraordinary testament to the rich marine life that flourishes in these frigid waters.

Reflections on a Journey through Time

Le Lyrial in Antarctica @Emma Sanger-Horwell

As we began our return voyage through the Drake Passage and headed toward Cape Horn, I took a moment to reflect on the entire adventure. Every day was filled with wonder — from the icy landscapes and unique wildlife to the rich history etched into every continent we touched. The expert naturalist guides shed light on the ecological significance of each site we visited, deepening my appreciation for these extraordinary places.

The stories of relentless exploration, human resilience, and the allure of the unknown stayed with me long after we returned to the shores of Ushuaia. 

My 18-day expedition on Le Lyrial was not just about witnessing the stunning beauty of the Southern Lands, but also about connecting with the spirit of exploration and the wildness that remains untamed in our world. This journey was a reminder of both the fragility and the enduring magnificence of our planet, leaving me deeply inspired and forever changed. 

If you ever dream of venturing to the ends of the Earth, I wholeheartedly recommend embarking on a journey like mine.

Aboard Ponant's Le Lyrial, my experience was unparalleled. The ship featured luxurious amenities, including elegantly designed cabins, a gourmet restaurant, and a relaxing spa. The knowledgeable crew provided exceptional service, while panoramic observation decks offered stunning views of the Southern Lands, enhancing every moment of our unforgettable journey through these remote regions.

If your clients can afford a longer trip then I wholeheartedly recommend taking a trip which takes in both South Georgia and Antarctica.

About the author:

Emma Sanger-Horwell is Head of Cruise at Kenwood Travel. With over 35 years of experience in the travel industry, particularly in cruise specialisation, Emma's passion for expedition cruises is unmistakable. She has embarked on numerous hot and cold adventures, but her favourite destination is Antarctica, closely followed by Aldabra. Emma's extensive knowledge and personal experiences make her a valuable resource for anyone interested in exploring the breath-taking beauty of these remote regions. Her enthusiasm for discovering the wonders of the world's oceans and landscapes is evident, making her insights invaluable for clients seeking unforgettable expedition adventures.